Friday, April 22, 2022

The Diary Of Eber Culver Summarized

Eber Culver, who designed and oversaw the building of many of Williamsport's historic buildings, wrote a "diary", or memoir, of his life, focusing mainly on his trip west in the gold rush, but also mentioning his life and business in Williamsport,


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A Brief As I Could Manage Summary
Of the Diary Of Eber Culver
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Eber begins his story by telling you where he was born, and when,  giving the  locations, names of his siblings, and a few brief anecdotes of his life on the farm.  The family moved to Auburn NY in 1830 when he father was appointed warden of a prison there. 

 Throughout, Eber mentions the variety of good schools he had access to, and even attended.  In every mention, he reminds the readers that he never actually graduated from any of them.  Having an affinity for building, and with a slight allusion to the fact that he may not have been running with the best crowd, his parents decided to send him to Ohio to live with his sister and her husband, where he could apprentice as a builder.

Eber speaks very highly of his sister.  Through her christian influence, he was baptized in 1841.  This may be especially relevant to those who know of Culvers later history with the First Baptist Church in Williamsport.

After a page or two describing the various means of travel he has experienced in his 70 years, including train, canal boat, steam boat, wagon train, and more, Eber tell us a bit about his early work in construction.

"Meanwhile my boss had given up building and was devoting his time to the practice of dentistry" I don't want you to miss that part.  Not only did Eber never graduate from any school, he apprenticed as a builder under a dentist. Well, technically a builder who became a dentist, but my point remains.

Eber than returned to more schooling, which he also never completed. In 1844 through 1845, after returning from Dayton Ohio to Auburn NY, Eber took drawing lessons from Mr Hamlin, who subsequently became a well known architect. "By means of these drawing lessons, I learned how to use the tools and brushes, also a little about Geometry."

In 1847, Eber married  Gertrude Ann Hermance.  His diary devotes nearly a page as a dedication to her, and their marriage.   

 In 1844 he began work for Thomas Nelson, a builder.  That lasted until 1849. 

  "Eber writes [pg 50] "In 1849, the Gold Fever was very prevalent, and many were carried off by it.  It took me two years to recover, at which time I found myself in Elmira. It was through my ability to make a drawing that I secured a job two or three times."

Gold had been discovered in California in January of 1848.   

[Side note, my gggg aunt and uncle, James & Eliza Gregson were there.  They had traveled by wagon west in 1844, camped with the Donner party survivors, and James was one of the first to discover gold in 1848.  You can read more about all of that, including their memoirs, here: https://fieldsofhether.blogspot.com/2019/09/reading-old-bones-and-our-families.html)

For 40 pages,  Culver tells us of his trip west, leaving his wife and daughter behind in New York,  during the Gold Rush. It's a fantastic tale, beginning with a trip through Pennsylvania on a lumber raft [pg 8], where one passenger drowned along the way.  In Northumberland he switched to travel by canal, abandoning the raft travel that he deemed dangerous.  From there he traveled by train through Johnstown [pg 9, 10], steam boat, ferry, and finally, by covered wagon [pg 11].  The details and stories along the way are pure gold for any historian, and for the rest of you, just a quick, fun, read.

There are descriptions of soda springs:
"At a point near this turn in Bear River, we found the celebrated Soda Springs.  A large number of cone shaped hillocks were scattered over a space of several acres, having crater shaped tops.  These hillocks seemed to have been formed by a mineral deposit from the water and were a foot and a half to three foot or four foot high.  Most of them had water effervescing like soda water.  I do not thing any of them were flowing over at the time.  We used some of the water instead of common water and soda to make our flapjacks with perfect success."

Snakes:

"Did we see any snakes?  Yes, we saw some.  How many? Well, I don't think the thirty of us, all together saw over thirty thousand, and maybe not so many as that.  There were doubtless millions of them we did not see."

Thirst and exhaustion:

"we men and our beasts (we could not restrain them) hurried toward the trees and down into the Carson River to drink, as only famished creatures would, and to bathe as dirty men should"

Very few trees were seen along the route.  "Generally, there was some timber on the bottom lands all the way over, otherwise it was the exception. On the plains and prairies we at times were out of sight of trees, as if it were on the ocean.  Sometimes a locality was known by a lone tree, as for instance, "The Lone Jack.  The prairie fires had kept back and destroyed the timber during many generations." The trees the Eber saw at the Carson river were the first large ones they had seen for 800 miles or so.

There are mentions of Quick Sand, Goose Bush, Buffalo, Antelopes, Fort Kearney, Indian Territory, and Cholera.

Nearing the end of their travels west, they encountered a mormon, stationed in a tent to barter for the dilapidated wagons and animals being discarded at this point of the journey.  From him the group procured a manuscript guide giving the distances between camping places, and descriptions of the route.

Arriving In The Mining Towns

Eber often references his memory not being clear on the dates, but he celebrated his 25th birthday in September 1849, and soon after  his group arrived at the mining towns in October of 1849.  "My memory fails me here but it is clear in regard to seeing the first men prospecting for gold.  It was say eight or ten miles from Placerville, in the afternoon.  In a dry shallow ravine, which ran parallel with our road, we saw a few men at work with pick and shovels hunting for the precious metal.  There was no tent or other shelter in sight.  They told us how far it was to town and we hastened on, to find a typical mining town of tens and shacks of all kinds, which were being used for stores, whiskey shops, boarding places, gambling saloons and shelter.  "I do not think any of the mining towns in A.D. 1849 had any buildings more substantial than canvas and pole construction."

In Sacramento City, the traveling group split up and went their own ways.  Eber camped with a companion on blankets under a large oak tree, found work shingling the roof of Brannons store, and survived an attack of dysentery, a disease which killed many men in the area at that time.  Eber was quite ill for some time, and although hsi brother in law prescribed medication, it did not offer relief.  A passing stranger advised Eber to take the inner bark of the oak tree that shaded his tent, steep it in water to make a tea, and drink it.  Following his advice, Eber began to recover.

When the rainy season began, the men moved to the Jim Orchard boarding house on Second street between E & L. streets.  Eber then dedicates an entire page of his 55 page diary to the food available, and not available, at the time. There were no milk or eggs, and therefor no products made with milk or eggs.  There was very little butter available, and no canned fruits.  There was meat and flour, dried meats, and dried apples.  "Mince pies made of hashed beef, dried apples, and house flies in equal parts, well seasoned and baked"

Here Eber  mentions voting in the election for a "new state resolution", making California a state. Soon the Sacramento river flooded, and Eber build a flat bottomed boat.  The first floor of their boarding house was by then under water. During the flood, those living in tents evacuated, and Eber recounts coming across an abandoned tent on which someone had painted the words "F O R  S A I L "

"I think the flood came in the latter part of January, 1850.  My recollection of this intervening time and events to say, April 1st 1850, is faint and indistinct.  I made some cradle gold washers.  I do not remember of being idle or being in debt.  Neither did I have any money, nor much of any."

Panning For Gold

On the first of April 1850, Eber, his brother Leander, and their dog Silus, went to the mines.  They traveled to Fold Urn near Nevada City, and worked for short time there with "poor success".  Next they secured a claim further down the run, which paid "perhaps $15 a day each".  Meanwhile they had prospectors out looking for better grounds, and soon they had word that a good claim had been located near the middle fork of the Yuba River.

"Tell you about the prospect?  We had fine prospects, especially from the tops of most of the mountains, that is, distance lends enchantment to the view.  What about gold?  That did not appear.  It was not in the prospect."

It had been an arduous trip over mountains to get there, and once there, it took a good deal of time and work but gold was not found.  After several similar attempts, "we bid good bye to Middle Yuba.  I can't think back to it with any satisfaction." On pages 33 through 36, Eber gives descriptions of the mining process, and how the search for gold was made.

After 5 months of hard work, Eber and his brother returned to their claim at Gold Run, to find it had been well worked over with excellent results.  They had abandoned a valuable claim, for a worthless one. They decided to go to Sacramento city, and there Eber found two months of construction work, to earn money.

Cholera was prevalent in California in the summer of 1850, and Eber again makes mention of it at the bottom of page 36.

Returning Home

On December 5th 1850 Eber received a letter from his wife, who was still living in Auburn NY, saying she was not well.  Eber decided to return home at once.  

This time his travel entailed: An 18 hour steam boat ride to San Francisco, where he saw the old square built Mexican Public buildings facing the square, Gambling and Liquor abounding as it did in all mining towns, and a large number of sailing vessels lying along the shore, deserted, half afloat and stuck in the mud.  "I'm told that all the space has been filled in and the shore line extended far beyond where those vessels then lay."

From San Francisco Eber boarded the Steamer Oregon, which sailed for Panama. The course traveled along the coast of the United States, Mexico, and Central America. The ship anchored in Roadstead at Panama, and Eber recounted that it had been a very pleasant trip, with fine weather. He had seen schools of whales playing and spouting, and turtles.  In Panama he toured the Cathedral and recommended that others do so as well.  From there he went by foot, two days,  to a town where they boarded row boats to the Port of Charges.

"It was easy to go down and hard to go up, as it is now days.  There were no gasoline engines, and men had to pull hard on the oard to get up stream.  The craft I was in had about fifteen passengers and thier baggage."

The panama railroad was being graded as they came down the river, December 23 1850.

Here Eber describes spending Christmas in Chagres (page 40), and also recounts seeing a sailboat capsize and watching the rescue.  "I think three men were saved and one was lost.  It was a thrilling sight to see the men in peril and the men going to the rescue."

December 26th the Steamship Crescent sailed for New York, but a few, including Eber, were refused passage.  He never found out why, but surmised that the passenger limit had been reached.  They obtained ticked instead to Kingston Jamaica, 600 miles north.  For the next few pages he describes the travel by ships.  "On the last lap of the home stretch.  Only a few were bringing back the golden treasures they went out for.  But were not they returning to more precious treasures than they failed to secure.  That is to say, the home treasures, loved ones of the home...  such a list of treasures is better than gold.  If you cannot have the whole list, then throw out the gold."

One of the California miners died on the return trip and was buried at sea, that is described on page 42.

Eber tells, on page 43 and 44, of his purchase of Missouri State Bank notes in California, where they were not accepted as currency.  Upon arrival in NY, Eber attempted to cash them in, but was met with suspicion, as counterfeit bills had become such a problem.  He had to send them to a friend in St Louis to have them exchanged.

It took 18 hours to travel by train from New York to Troy, Pa.  There was no Hudson River Railroad in 1851. Eber stopped to see his sister Permelia and her husband, and found that his sister, although in good spirits, was sick beyond hope of recovery.

"Sixty years ago we did not think it necessary to use the telegraph as we have done since, therefore I did not let my dear wife and 2 1/3 year old daughter know I had arrived.  It is a long time since I gave up such a practice.  I arrived in Auburn just in time to step into a candy store for something for Ella.  It was only a short distance up State Street where a very cordial greeting was given me.  I was expected that night, how, I don't know.  My wife told my brother that I was coming home that night. Somehow she expected me, and somehow I came."

In Elmira

In April Mr E. O. West, who had been part of their California company, offered Eber work in Elmira. The prospect there was good, and Eber soon sent for his family to join him. There they remained until the spring of 1855.  

In the spring of 1854, Eber was part of the firm that built the Northern Central Railroad roundhouse in Elmira. It was his last work in that city. On August 1st, 1855, a group of men from Elmira left for Williamsport to build a saw mill. Eber was among them.

Eber writes of Williamsport:

"The population at that time was between three and four thousand.  No railroad connections then except with Elmira.  The West Branch Canal was open, and freight and packet boats were run during the open season. The place had no waterworks, or gas, or electric lights, or sewers, or paved streets, and very few side walks.  Some of them were tan bark.  Also, no steam boat and no street cars.  The school buildings were a disgrace to the town. But taxes were low."

The Culver family, Eber, his wife, their daughter Ella, a son Newton, and a "very faithful Irish girl" (servant) moved to a house on Maynard's row, on the corner lot of Maynard and West Third Streets, on April 1 1855.  Pages 46 and 46 describe the saw mills and lumbering, along with the Northern Central Railroad basin.

The family immediately found a little Baptist Church of about 20 members, meeting in the old court house.  They presented their letters, and were received into membership.  He describes the organization of the First Baptist Sunday School on page 48, elaborating on the choir and church membership through page 49, at the end delving briefly into his political affiliation, the  "free soil" party, later known as Republican.

In the middle of page 50 he describes his occupation, and that "in those days, carpentry was more of a trade than it is now.  Then, everything was made by hand.  Now all lumber is planed and matched and bended by machine.....  the carpenters had to be of a higher grade of mechanics and men than now.".  Here he goes back and describes his work, and schooling, in order, more concisely than in the early pages of his memoir. And here, on page 51, he mentions Herdic.  

"Came to Williamsport April 1 1855.  My building tendencies were expressed in the building of a sawmill and a planing mill, and then the First Baptist Church and the residences of Peter Herdic, now occupied by Burrows Bubb, and other residences until 1863, when the firm of Culver, Barber and Company was formed to carry on the planning mill, sash and door factory and lumber dealing all of which is part of and promoted building. The members of the firm were Eber Culver (myself) George P Barber, Horace B Taylor and Peter Herdic.  Mr Taylor sold his interest to John I Bery and Mr Herdic sold his interest to M. R. Hotchkiss.

The firm continued in business for about 10 and a half years.  During this time the company erected the Park Hotel (Herdic House), Lumbermenn bank, and adjoining buildings. Eber was also architect for the Mahlon Fisher residence, and the Fletcher Coleman home.  "the affairs of the company were in such a condition that I retired for the sum of $2,000."

Working For Herdic

"At this time in 1874, I became Mr Herdics architect, to take full charge of the planning and construction of all of his buildings.  My pay for this was $2000 per year and office expenses, with the privilege of doing other work not for him.  In the next 4 year he built the Trinity Church, The Weightman Block (2/3 done) a large number of double or twin houses some of them large and others medium, none of them ever lack for tenants."

"Mr Herdic failed, became bankrupt in 1878 and most of his real estate passed into the hand of William Weightman, who put it into the hands of his son-in-law, R.J.G Walker.  For superintending the completion of the Weightman Block, I was paid $1,000"

In 1878, Mrs Culver had "hemorrhage of the lungs".  [tuberculosis maybe?] It did not occur again, but she did not improve, so when their son Newton went west to Denver for work, his parents came with him.  The building business was not good however, and Mrs Culvers health did not improve.  The senior Culvers decided to return before their money was exhausted.  They arrived  back in Williamsport on Christmas Eve.  

In the spring of 1880, Peter Herdic left Williamsport for Philadelphia, to manufacture his celebrated Herdic Coach.  "Several Williamsport men were going to work for him and as business was very dull here it did not require any urging to get me to go and take charge of the work, carriage building."

Eber went in June of 1880, but left his family in Williamsport, saying "boarding houses pretty tough.".  In April of 1881 his family came to join him on 40th street, opposite the Baptist Church.  They remained there for a year and a half, returning to Williamsport when the Herdic Coach Project failed.

"I had been away long enough to lose my hold, my former workmen had become constructors who made their estimates so low that they could not making a living and are poor today."

Culver & Hudson

On January 1 1883 Eber opened an office on the second floor of the building on the southeast corner of Third and Pine streets.  "Work began to come in, both for architectural and constructional work, until I was overloaded."  Around 1886, Eber took on Milton Hudson as a student. In 1890, Eber made him a partner.  On page 54, Eber lists (a partial list) of  the buildings he worked on at that time.

Culver & Son

When Newtwon arrived home from Chicago in 1894, the firm of Culver and Hudson dissolved and the firm of Culver and Son was formed.  They moved to the Weightman building, but "after a few months trial we found that our success, or non success, did not justify the expenses we were under.  Therefor we finished our work and quit."

Newton had been busy inventing a hard wall plaster, forming a plaster and cement company of which Eber was an official stockholder in that company, which did quite well.

 Culver died in his Williamsport residence, at 738 West Fourth Street, on Saturday, October 23, 1911 at the age of 87.

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