Sunday, March 12, 2023

The Hermit Of Blue Hill -Eccentric John Mason's Leaning Tower

 

In 1839, John Mason, "The Hermit Of Blue Hill", built a tower leaning out over the Susquehanna River overlooking Northumberland Pa.  The tower was built "near the spot one sees Shikellamy, about where the top of the forehead would be seen"

It sounds like a legend, especially when you add in the details of Mason's life, his skating trips to Williamsport, and tales of him walking everywhere under an umbrella, even when it wasn't raining. However, the leaning tower really did once exist.  It's mentioned in numerous accounts from stage coach trips, rafting memoirs, newspapers, and in the book Daily Stories of Pennsylvania History, by Frederick Godcharles.  

I am uncertain what publication the photo at the top of this page came from, but it appears very similar to a modern, in color, sketch by Michael Roush, that I have seen on facebook.

 The second sketch, below,  is a very grainy scan. It is an earlier drawing, showing a much more simple design, and is likely the more accurate.  

This is a very pixelated scan of the sketch, but I believe the tower is high on the far right, a little almost box like structure on the hill.  

The observatory was 16 feet by 18 feet, two stories high, built in an octagonal shape. Two holes were drilled into the rocks, iron bars were inserted in, and the house was build around them.   It leaned at an angle of about 22 degrees.  "The  roof  was flat,  and  there  was  a  railing  around  it  for  protection  of  those  who  had courage  to  go  upon  it  and  look  down  the  frightful  precipice. " 

Note - some descriptions say 22 degrees, others say 75 degrees.  
75 degrees seems more likely

"..and old John Mason's leaning tower or house on the very verge of the high precipitous cliff or mountain on the south shore of the West Branch still threatens to topple over at any moment.  I well remember with what wonder and amazement I viewed it; astonished at the marvelous skill and daring require to construct it in that frightful position.  When I have watched it intently while a storm was raging and the clouds flew rapidly by, to my youthful eyed it seemed to move and tremble, and I surely expected to see it come flying into town." Rafting 50 Years Ago, By A.J. McCall, 1888.

Below I have included all of the various articles and mentions I could find of Jon Mason and his leaning tower, but I have started with one good overview, told by Frederick Godcharles in his Daily Stories Of Pennsylvania History. 


When the story ran in the Miltonian, Godcharles included the following introduction:
"How well the editor remembers when a boy, visiting his grandfather, then in business at the old weigh lock, where the canal emptied into the old Susquehanna at Northumberland, of the interesting tales related about John Mason arid his leaning tower. It often seemed, m imagination, that one could see this old curiosity and its eccentric owner, but it was for those older to know in reality of this interesting man his more interesting home."

Eccentric  John  Mason's  Leaning  Tower  on 
Blue  Hill  Destroyed  April  22,  1864 
From Daily Stories Of Pennsylvania History
By Frederick Godcharles

TRAVELERS  up  and  down  both  branches  of  the  Susquehanna River  years  ago  will  well remember  the  leaning  tower  high  up on  Blue  Hill,  opposite  Northumberland.  This  peculiar  building hung  over  a  precipice  and  viewed  from  the  river  level, looked  as  if  a  breath  of  air  would  topple  it  to  the  rocks  below. It  was  built  by  John  Mason,  who  owned  a  farm  of  ninety acres  of  land  on  the  hill,  and  who,  from  his  eccentricities,  came  to  be known  as  the  "Hermit  of  Blue  Hill." 

The  tower,  which  was  built  as  an  observatory,  was  about  sixteen by  eighteen  feet,  two  stories  in  height  and  of  octagonal  shape.  It  leaned at  an  angle  of  about  twenty-two  degrees  and  for  safety  was  clamped  to the  rock  upon  which  it  was  built  with  strong  iron  rods.  The  roof  was flat,  and  there  was  a  railing  around  it  for  protection  of  those  who  had courage  to  go  upon  it  and  look  down  the  frightful  precipice. 

The  view  from  the  roof  of  "John  Mason's  Leaning  Tower,"  as  it was  called,  was  one  of  superlative  grandeur.  Both  the  North  and West  Branches  of  the  Susquehanna,  as  well  as  the  main  stream  below their  confluence,  the  majestic  hills  and  pretty  towns  of  Northumberland and  Sunbury  could  all  be  taken  in  one  panoramic  view.  Blue  Hill  at this  point  is  301  feet  in  height,  as  determined  by  the  engineers  who  laid out  the  railroad  in  after  years. 

The  leaning  tower  was  built  very  near  the  spot  one  now  sees,  in seeking  the  profile  of  old  "Shikellamy,"  which  would  be  located  about where  the  top  of  the  forehead  would  be  seen.  The  tower  was  almost destroyed  by  visitors  who  cut  their  initials  upon  everything  of  wood, until  it  was  entirely  covered  by  these  characters. 

John  Mason  built  this  odd-looking  house  in  1839.  William  Henry did  the  carpenter  work.  It  stood  there  until  the  spring  of  1864 — a period  of  twenty-five  years — when,  on  a  Sunday  afternoon,  April  22,  it was  destroyed  by  a  party  of  railroad  men  in  a  spirit  of  deviltry.  They loosened  its  moorings  and  the  curious  tower  rolled  down  the  rocky precipice  with  a tremendous  crash  and  landed  on  a  raft  of  logs  passing down  stream. 

Its  destruction  removed  one  of  the  oddest,  as  well  as  one  of  the most  conspicuous,  landmarks  along  the  Susquehanna  River. 

There  are  several  stories  related  of  John  Mason's  eccentricities  and the  motives  which  induced  him  to  erect  this  leaning  tower. 

About  the  time  the  vandals  destroyed  the  tower  a  most  interesting novel  was  written  entitled  "Eros  and  Antiros,"  which  story  was  woven about  this  scene  and  its  unusual  builder.     In  fact,  John  Mason  was the  hero  of  the  story.    The  author,  being  a  personal  acquaintance,  may  have  written  from  a  knowledge  of  the  facts. 

In  the  story  John  Mason  had  been  disappointed  in  a  love  affair  and  sought  this  manner  to  remove  himself  from  the  busier  world  and  to live  and  die  in  seclusion. 

Another  version  of  the  eccentric  John  Mason's  leaning  tower  is  that it  was  his  eyrie,  where  he  gathered  together  a  rare  collection  of  queer old  English  books — they  sold  at  75  cents  the  bushel-basketful  at  his  sale — and  here  he  slung  his  hammock  and  here  he  read  his  books. 

That  story  says  John  Mason's  father  was  a  Quaker,  living  in Philadelphia,  an  old  acquaintance  of  James  Jenkins,  Jr.,  at  Turtle  Creek, opposite  the  town  of  Northumberland,  at  the  base  of  Blue  Hill,  who  said to  him  one  day,  speaking  of  his  son  John,  that  he  was  a  restless  fellow and  wanted  to  go  to  sea,  and  that  it  would  be  the  death  of  his  mother. 

"Can't  thee  take  him  out  with  thee?"  Jenkins  replied  that  it  was  a wild  place  and  not  likely  to  suit  the  taste  of  one  who  wanted  to  go sea-faring. 

But  John  Mason  did  go  up  into  the  wilderness,  engaged  in  the mercantile  business  for  a  time  at  Northumberland,  then  moved  his  stock of  merchandise  to  the  western  side  of  the  river  and  opened  a  store  at Turtle  Creek. 

John  Mason  never  recognized  or  became  intimate  with  women.  One evening  at  the  Jenkins  home.  Mason  came  in  as  was  his  custom  from the  store,  about  9  o'clock,  and  seated  himself  by  the  ample  fireplace  to read  a  book.  There  was  a  number  of  young  people  in  the  room,  who were  playing  pawns  and  forfeits.  One  pretty  girl  was  condemned  in  a whisper,  to  kiss  John  Mason.  He  was  apparently  paying  no  attention to  the  others,  but,  as  she  slyly  approached  within  reaching  distance,  he raised  the  tongs  between  them,  saying,  "Not  one  step  nearer." 

Jenkins  and  he  went  alternately  to  Philadelphia  to  buy  goods. Mason  always  walked  there  and  back.  He  lived  to  an  extreme  age  and was  buried  on  his  hill-top. 

So  much  for  that  story.  It  is  generally  accepted  that  John  Mason was  of  English  origin,  born  in  Philadelphia,  December  7,  1768,  and  died on  the  farm  of  Colonel  Meens  above  the  present  city  of  April  25,  1849. 

During  his  life  at  the  Blue  Hill  home,  it  is  told  of  him  that  he  was a  sterling  athlete,  and  could  skate  to  Harrisburg  in  half  a  day;  that  he often  walked  to  Williamsport,  always  carrying  an  old  umbrella.  His eccentricities  were  much  talked  about  in  his  day. 

During  the  winter  following  his  death  his  remains  were  removed  by friends,  on  a  sled  and  carried  to  the  scene  of  his  hermit  life,  and  buried under  the  wide  spreading  branches  of  a  chestnut  tree  a  few  yards  in  the rear  of  his  leaning  tower,  A  neat  marble  tombstone,  properly  inscribed, was  erected  to  mark  the  place  of  his  burial. 

This  grave  has  long  since  been  so  trampled  upon  by  curious  visitors, that  it  was  entirely  obliterated  many  years  ago.  Relic  hunters  so  defaced the  stone  that  it  was  removed  to  a  neighboring  farm  house  for preservation.  This  is  all  that  remains  by  which  to  remember  John Mason,  "The  Hermit  of  Blue  Hill,"  the  builder  of  the  ''Leaning Tower." 

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The following article was contributed to this issue by M. J. D. Withington. 

 JOHN MASON
 For a man so closely identified in much that ha? made Blue Hill historical, very little has been said or published in regard to him, who could with propriety be called its founder. 

 John Mason was born in Philadelphia, and was of a respectable family. His father was a sea captain, and well to do. He had just built a new vessel which was' about ready sail, and to be placed in charge of John and his brother Robert John had no taste for sailor's life, and when the vessel was about ready to sail he disappeared, and we have no account of him until he turned up in Northumberland. 

After he was here for some time he formed a partnership with James Jenkins and opened a store in what was then a story and a half brick building on the corner where Mr. Elliott's residence now stands. The partnership did not last long; they divided their stock. and Mr. Mason had his interest moved on upper Queen street in what is known as the Logue house. Store-keeping not suiting his taste he was only a short time in the business.

 He purchased from the Hunter girls one hundred and thirteen acres of land on Blue Hill, and subsequently' bought the face of the hill from William Hoffman and Henry Masser; afterwards purchasing a farm at Long Reach, a few miles above Williamsport. 

It was on one of his annual visits to Long Reach that he took sick and died. His remains were buried on Blue Hill, . a short distance from the Leaning Tower. Appropriate marble head and foot stones marked his resting place until a spirit of vandalism broke and destroyed almost their identification. This vandalism can only be attributed to the barbarity of the relic hunter, for Mr. Hunter had no enemies.

 As I recollect Mr. Mason, he was a man that weighed about one hundred and fifty pounds, and stood about five feet eight inches high. In season he wore a brown overcoat that came down to his heels, and carried a walking stick nearly as long as himself, holding it above 'the centre. His manners were as modest and retiring as a maiden's. 

He seldom came to town; only when he desired to make some purchases. There were only two places I ever knew him to stop at when in town; one was at the store of William Forsyth. Mr. Mason and Mr. Forsyth were congenial friends and enjoyed a social chat. The other stop ping place was at the store of Messrs. Brautigam and Waples, who occupied the stone building now used by Mr. E. Straub for a flour and feed store. Mr. Brautigam was also originally from Philadelphia, and if, informed correctly, their families were acquainted with each other. 

Mr. Mason was a man of literary tastes, but with all was quite eccentric. When making a trip to Philadelphia he would go on horseback, but would lead the horse almost the entire distance ; seemingly the horse was taken along more for company than utility. Mr. Mason was an active man, and very agile on foot. The path or rather switchback he constructed to ascend or descend the face of the hill was a dangerous one, and I doubt whether anyone but himself ever accomplished the feat of passing over it. 

He was a graceful skater, and when it was announced that he was on the ice crowds gathered to watch his graceful skating movements.

 Blue Hill in my recollection has always been a resort for picnickers and sight-seekers, and among the many thousands who have visited the place very few can say they ever met or saw Mr. Mason. He occupied a story and a half building about thirty yards back from the brow of the hill, and had it so arranged that he could see most of all that was going on, but seldom at home to callers. 

On one occasion when away from home the house was entered and some valuables taken out of a desk. In order to prevent a repetition he arranged a battery inside. By lifting the lid the contents would enter the vital parts. He narrowly escaped being the first victim; he lifted the lid of the desk, but fortunately he stood at an angle, or would have been mortally shot ; as it was the waist band of his pants and part of his underclothing were taken by the dis charge.

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"Here you crossed the river at the old West Branch Bridge, you beheld that high promontory called "Blue Hill."  The history and traditions which cluster around the old hill are familiar to all.  In crossing the river you saw the leaning house build by John Mason in the early history of Pennsylvania.  Here you saw the image of Indian Shikellamy staring you in the face..."
Stage Coach Days, Helen V. Kapp 1913 DAR address

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This letter was written by Mason Hutchins to his Uncle John Mason in response to an earlier letter from John Mason.  Mason mentions various subjects relating to family matters in Philadelphia. May 15, 1820.

Philadelphia, PA
May 15th, 1820
Dear John, 
I have not much to communicate respecting family affairs, having left Vine Street on 22nd  ?? in consequence of indisposition and after having confined to my Sister’s house for two weeks, have taken my residence I another part of the city; I will endeavor to see TP [Thomas Paul] and advise him as you direct upon looking over your letters, I am unable to meet with such information respecting the Power of Atty as would be proper for me to ? before calling on Mr. Brown.  Mother informs me that S [?] has visited them in Vine St and expressed his determination to bring forward all who can give any information respecting your expression against him; this he said was a duty due his children as he had been publicly spoken of as a thief.  She also said that S [?] is much satisfied with the Atty you have employed, who has advised an amicable settlement, and who wrote a long letter to you on the subject.  It is my intention only to visit Vine St for the purpose of removing a few articles left there,  when if I see EM [Elizabeth Mason] I will request her to mention to T.P, that you have written.   
MH
 [Mason Hutchins] 


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"We looked around for some place to sit down and think over the matter, and not seeing a better or more convenient place set down on the grave of the far-famed John Mason.  I say far-famed because he was the man who built the leaning house, and as everyone had heard of the Leaning Tower on Blue Hill, they must of course have a....  

Mason must have at one time heard the Bible, and at that part in wherein mentions that a man must built his house upon a rock and not the sand, for he chose a rock about 400 feet above the sands of the river; and such a rock it was too; he could not dig a cellar under the house he however drilled two holed in the foundation and in each of these he fastened an iron rod and then build the house round them.  These rods were all that prevented the house from sliding off the foundation and tumbling own the hill; it leaned at an angle of 75 degrees over an almost perpendicular mass of rocks 400 feet high.  

Some three or four years ago, a party of raftman who had nothing else to do and had not the fear of the Lord in them went up the hill one Sunday and tumbled the old house down.  If the pieces had been gathered up, they would have made very good kindling without being split." - 1873 letter to the editor of the Public Press,  about a picnic on Blue Hill, mentioning the leaning tower and Mason's Grave.

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Around the time John Mason's leaning tower was destroyed by vandals, a novel was written.  The author was  an acquaintance of John Mason.  The Novel is "Eros and Anteros:Or The Bachelors Ward." written in 1857  by Judith Canute, the pen name for Juliet Hamersley Lewis.  The novel is rumored to be in part based on the life of John Mason.  The description of the main characters home is identical to the real life description of John Mason's house on Blue Hill.

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1873
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"..and old John Mason's leaning tower or house on the very verge of the high precipitous cliff or mountain on the south shore of the West Branch still threatens to topple over at any moment.  I well remember with what wonder and amazement I viewed it; astonished at the marvelous skill and daring require to construct it in that frightful position.  When I have watched it intently while a storm was raging and the clouds flew rapidly by, to my youthful eyed it seemed to move and tremble, and I surely expected to see it come flying into town." Rafting 50 Years Ago, By A.J. McCall, 1888.

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1891

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Public Press, 1891
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From Turbut Township Men Of Note in 1772
"Mason John.
 Johnny Mason as he used to be called in my boyhood days at Northumberland was an eccentric old bachelor. He had a handsome farm and dwelling house on the famous 'Blue Hill' opposite the town of Northumberland. He had a summer house of observation built close along the edge of this hill fronting Northumberland and so built as to make it look as if it leaned toward town and would fall over but it stood solid. Mason was born at Philadelphia in 1768 and died on his Lang Reach farm near Newbury, Lycoming county in 1843 age upwards of 80 years and his remains He buried under a chestnut tree near his Blue Hill leaning summer house, or rather where it used to stand as it is gone now I believe. "
Note - Turbut Township once extended from Fort Augusta to the Muncy Hills.
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1873 letter to the editor about a picnic on Blue Hill, mentioning the leaning tower and Mason's Grave.




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